Distribution:- Iguanas are large arboreal lizards found in areas of Mexico, south Brazil, Paraguay and in the lesser Antilles.
Size:- The size of your iguana depends greatly on country of origin and the conditions under which you keep your pet. On average, an adult iguana will range from 1.2 - 1.5 meters (4 - 5ft) in length although many have been known to reach lengths of 1.8 meters (6ft) and weigh around 4.5kg (10 lbs).
Diet:- Wild green iguanas are herbivorous consuming a primarily folivorous diet of leaves, blossoms and fruit. Diet should be altered according to age rather than size. Iguanas up to 2 years old should have a diet consisting of 80% green plant matter and 20% vegetation. Iguanas over 2 years old should have a diet consisting of 95% green plant matter and 5% vegetation.
Plant Matter:- Turnip greens, celery leaves, dandelion, collards, radish, endive, green mustard, kohlrabi, watercress, Chinese leaves, fresh grass, romaine lettuce, coriander and chives.
Protein:- Romaine lettuce, legumes, chick peas, soya, Quorn, bamboo shoots, mushrooms, mung-bean sprouts, alfalfa, spinach and tofu.
Fibre:- Mixed grain or wholemeal bread and natural bran cereal all dampened with water.
Fruit and vegetables:- Mixed vegetables, sweet potatoes, orange, blackberries, figs, tangerine, water melon, apples, strawberries, grapes, kiwi, papaya, prickly pear, kumquats, leeks and pear.
N.B. Beets, celery stalk, swiss chard and spinach contain oxalic acid, which reacts with calcium and forms an insoluble salt, calcium oxalate that decreases the availability of calcium in the diet. Although high in calcium, these should be used less frequently and in smaller amounts (once a fortnight). Cabbage, broccoli, cauliflower, turnips, bok-choi, kale and Brussels sprouts should be fed in very small amounts, i.e. once a month. These foods bind with iodine which may eventually lead to goitre, a dysfunction of the thyroid gland. This does not mean that these foods cannot be used at all, just in moderation.
Heat source:- This can be either reflector (spot) lights in green, red or blue, ceramics or tubular heaters.
Wire mesh guards:- These should be fitted over all heat sources used in order to prevent thermal burns.
Thermostat:- An essential part of any vivarium and is required to regulate the internal temperatures within the vivarium and to prevent your pet from becoming too hot or too cold.
Thermometers:- One should be placed each end of the vivarium in order to give an accurate reading of the temperatures within the vivarium. Never go by the temperature on the thermostat as these are often inaccurate.
UV light source:- Reptisun 5.0UVB, Iguana light or Arcadia D3 lamp. These should be left on for 8 - 12 hours a day and replaced every 12 months unless otherwise stated by the manufacturer.
Housing:- This should consist of a dark wooden vivarium with a glass frontage and adequate ventilation. Juveniles would require a vivarium measuring 60cm (2ft) long by 60cm (2ft) deep by 60cm (2ft) high. An adult would require a vivarium measuring 1.8 meters (6ft) long by 60cm (2ft) deep by 1.2 meters (4ft) high. These measurements are to be used as a guideline only.
Hides:- These are essential to prevent stress and to allow your pet to hide away from the outside world. Artificial plants, boxes, plant pots etc. all make excellent hides.
Water:- These animals require a water container which will allow them to bathe without constriction. This water should be changed daily as this is also the water they drink from.
Temperatures:- A basking area of a minimum of 31°C (88°F) and a maximum of 36°C (97°F). A background temperature ranging from 20 - 30°C (68 - 86°F).
Humidity:- 65 to 95 % with the occasional misting using tepid water.
Longevity:- Iguanas if kept under the right conditions and given the correct diet can live between 10 and 15 years with some exceeding this.
Substrate:- This can be anything from newspaper, brown paper, wood chippings, cork chippings or even Astro turf. Whatever you use, remember that it must be cleaned on a regular basis to prevent contamination from disease.
Salmonella:- Many reptiles carry the naturally forming bacteria Salmonella. It must be stated however that salmonella bacteria can only be contracted by ingestion (via the mouth). Good hygiene is therefore very important when keeping any animal. Remember, you are just as likely to contract salmonella from your Sunday lunch, cream cake or dog so don't automatically assume that your iguana is the only suspect!
This information is given as the opinion of Proteus Reptile Trust only.
Revised: March, 2001.
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